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It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas…
I’m in Zagreb, where much of the population celebrates Christmas on December 25th, as opposed to the Serbian Orthodox Christmas on January 7th. It’s almost been a shock to to hear Christmas music and...
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Zagreb: Breaking up is hard to do
Zagreb has a lot to offer: great shopping, nice architecture, and a slew of museums. But the best museum in Zagreb wasn’t in any of the guidebooks we saw; Privi and I found it by chance. We were...
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Balkanalia, Zagreb
I asked for hot chocolate at this mulled wine stand and was firmly told, “No. Only wine or Rakija.” Let me get this straight. If I walk around with a bottle of water, I get quizzical looks. But if I...
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Zagreb’s Mimara, the Museum of Mystery
Greetings from Zagreb, readers! It’s my second visit to this lovely city, and a much warmer one. The kuvano vino stands are gone, the sun is shining, and despite the great weather, I hightailed it for...
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When all at once I saw a crowd/A host, of golden daffodil
Zagreb has been (relatively) warm and sunny, and there’s talk of Belgrade getting to the high fifties this weekend. After last week’s snow, do I dare to dream of spring? The remnants of Zagreb’s flower...
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Springtime in the Balkans
If my “Daffodils” post was too Western for you, here’s a more Balkan sign of spring: when the mulled wine stands in Zagreb turn into rakija and apple syrup stands. Once again, I made the mistake of...
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Church on Sunday: Zagreb Cathedral
This Church on Sunday features a Cathedral of many names. Most guidebooks will call it the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Others call it St. Stephen’s Cathedral. (The Cathedral...
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